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What chain?
#1
Hi guy's, i currently have a trek 6000 with a fair few upgrades but I haven't bothered changing the chain-set etc because it works well and i don't see the point right now, i do however need a new chain. My set-up is a deore rear mech, alivio front, sram cassette, 9spd.

Wondering what chain you guy's would recommend? When i rode trials i always ran a kmc cool which were awesome however xc/mtb chains are a myth to me so i'm not sure what to look for.

thanks

Hugh
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#2
IIRC if you start changing odd bits and bobs on the drivetrain you may end up with a hell of a mess !

not sure about the chain bit, im sure someone more helpful will come along soon :B
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#3
"TooYoungToKnow" Wrote:IIRC if you start changing odd bits and bobs on the drivetrain you may end up with a hell of a mess !

not sure about the chain bit, im sure someone more helpful will come along soon :B

I haven't changed anything to date as i found the standard set-up fine however if i do change i will do the whole lot in one go Smile

thanks

Hugh
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#4
"hugh_b" Wrote:I haven't changed anything to date as i found the standard set-up fine however if i do change i will do the whole lot in one go Smile

thanks

Hugh

i think its more to do witht the fact that you are using a worn piece of kit on a unworm chain if you upgrade the chain which may cause it to slip
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#5
"TooYoungToKnow" Wrote:i think its more to do witht the fact that you are using a worn piece of kit on a unworm chain if you upgrade the chain which may cause it to slip

ah yes didn't think of that, the bike in question is not too old however so i may be ok. Is it usual practice to change the cassette and chain rings when replacing the chain?

Hugh
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#6
I would deccomend a Sram PC951 with the best Sram cassette you can afford. You will probably have to change your chainrings too depending on how worn they are. Chain and cassette should always be changed at the same time because they wear togather. As the chain stretches it wears out one side of the teeth on the cassette more than the other, so if you try and put a new chain on old cassette it will just slip.
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#7
If you change the chain before it gets to a critical point of wear you do not need to change the cassette...  i have a chain measuring tool which cost a couple of quid or so but i change chains s soon as possible thus saving on chain rings and cassettes...

click on the wiggle icon at the top of the page and buy a chain and tool together then you are set... meaure your old chain and you will know if its way streched you may need to replace other parts...

I have a new chainset to go on when the trails dry out and i will put on a new chain and cassette then but thats just because i want it all to be spot on...

Go for a Sram chain and buy an extra power link
Mei securis turpe meus vox<br />            
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#8
I'm with Mbnut on this one invest in a chain checking tool about £6, from CRC, i have done about 3000 miles on the road bike with the same cassette and two chains, when its part worn change the chain. But i have seen drive trains with about 5000 miles on all running on the same kit, cost the gut a chain cassette and chainset. About £250. Chain £25.   Bit of a no brainer really.
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#9
&quot;Mbnut&quot; Wrote:If you change the chain before it gets to a critical point of wear you do not need to change the cassette...
I'm hoping this is true in my case, as after buying a top of the range Sram cassette only a couple of months ago, and destoying my chain and rear mech last night, i have been forced through lack of choice to shell out neerly £30 on another chain >Sad  If it skips i'm going to cry :'(   If i post in the rant section later you know it didn't go well Wink
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#10
Thanks for the help guy's, i went for a sram pc971 in the end from "the woolly hat shop" for £14.99 delivered. I actually found out this was the chain that was originally on my bike.
Didn't need to change the cassette as there was not the slightest bit of wear.

-Hugh
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