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Avid Elixir 3 pad replacement/bleeding
Third set of pads I've replaced on the Avid Elixir 3 and each time what should have taken 5 seconds requires lots and lots of faffing about but today ended up with my bleeding the damn thing. Have never used Avid branded pads and supposedly other brands are thicker which causes the problems but I'm not convinced now.

Previous occassion I was out and we opened the lever bleed port so as to allow the pistons apart because with the pads in the wheel was difficult to turn. Today I tried the same technique but rather too much  fluid squirted out and a full bleed was necessary.

I held the pistons apart with a bleed block that came with the bike but noticed the pistons were still not flush with the inner surface of the caliper so added one of those plastic plant tags in there as well which did the trick. Used the Red Dog Racing bleed kit and the instructions which went well for a first time user. Now after bleeding properly, the new pads fit beautifully and the wheel turns as it should.

Hopefully they were just setup badly from the start (Canyon? Elixir?) and won't revert back to being a royal pain in the posterier the next time I replace the pads.
Ignore, load of rubbish. Didn't help whatsoever unless you count brake levers hitting the grips as a good thing. Either that or I've adjusted the rearch very badly. Not had time to confirm either way, Brakes were making interesting noises in Coed Y Brenin. Probably should have bedded them in. GF won't allow bike in bed though ha de ha de ha.

I thought the cylinders/pistons were supposed to self-adjust to some extent so that some extra fluid from the levers gets shoved into the caliper so that even when the pads wear you still only need to pull the lever the same amount. With the bleed-blocks (plus plastic plant label :Smile in it all felt very good indeed (hence my original statement about it all going smoothly).

There wasn't any mud at all in Coed Y Brenin even after  "black-cloud-double-rain" so nothing to disintegrate non-bedded-pads. Levers did seem to get closer to bars each ride, but was using brakes more than usual there.

Take the lever off the bars so the bleed port is at it's highest there is always air in that bit. I've bled countless sets and it's always the same.
"Longjon" Wrote:Take the lever off the bars so the bleed port is at it's highest there is always air in that bit. I've bled countless sets and it's always the same.

Ok, and orient them like in this pic:

The port and cable orientation mean you can never get the port higher than the cable unless you take them off the bars and I didn't do that. Just need something to attach the lever unless I can master that octopus super power I've always wanted in the next few days.
found some good info here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href=""> ... t-to-bleed</a><!-- m -->
There's a whole thread on here somewhere about bleeding these things or maybe about these bleeding things.
&quot;Tinc&quot; Wrote:There's a whole thread on here somewhere about bleeding these things or maybe about these bleeding things.

Bleeding things. The CR's on the DH bike are dragging again Sad
Had another go this evening. Did the rear first, removed cable and caliper from rear triangle, dangling from downtube. bike stand angled frame so cable on downtube rose up at steep angle, removed lever from bars and attached to a camera tripod, lever pointing down. as picture except moved tripod closer and angled lever so bleed port pointing up a few degrees from horizontal. then twiddled lever reach adjustment until leaver couldn't be pointing any further away (from what would have been the bars).

rear bleed going well until time to fill cylinder in lever by compressing caliper syringe. wouldn't go. tried a bit harder and tube came off syringe splattering .51 everywhere.

dont twiddle lever reach adjustment all the way for bleeding brakes!

refilled caliper syringe and refitted as per reddog instr. pushed it through.. all the way... including almost-foamy shit i hadn't wanted to. pushed lever syringe to get it back out into caliper syringe.  started over... de-bubbled caliper syringe... debubble caliper... push through but this time with lever syringe clamp on.

anway despite that cock up the rear brake is working as good as new - (which is good).

bleeding of the front went better but result sucks worse than before. lever hits bars and a chihuahua could bite harder. the bleed block (that came with brakes) fits snuggly into rear caliper w/o wiggle room. in front brake it is quite loose so i sandwiched some folded up a slice of thin plastic tray to make up for it. dont know why the front caliper has more room in it.

i accidentally pulled the lever the wrong way (ie in opposite direction to normal) and it kinda clicked and clunked into the new position, pulling as normal popped it back. after bleeding lever  brake still very spongy.
rear brake bleed setup. did similar for front brake. note: did adjust angle of lever before commencing.

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Bleeding brakes is a complete pain in the aris, i hate it, which is why i hand the bike to my lbs and gladly pay £15 for him to sort it out for me Wink

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