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RS Reverb options
#1
Thinking of buying myself an early birthday present, what is the current thinking re: the remote set up of the RS Reverb? There was talk of putting it upside down on the wrong side of the bar to get it out of the way, but now they seem to make a LH and RH remote so presumably the options are less limited... too confusing for my poor little brain. Presumably the 'upside down under the bar' bit is to avoid crash damage, but if you could choose would you have it right or left side? I realise it's based on whether you're right or left handed but before I shell out I thought I'd ask for opinions.

Over to you guys, what have you got and what do you think of it..? Also, please feel free to chip in any bad experiences with the Reverb vs competitors or anything else 'remotely' (see what I did there?) relevant.

Ta
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#2
Morning dude!

The RH and LH applies to it position it sits on top of the bars - so reverse it if you want it under!

My reverbs have generally always been fine - one blew up but it was replaced with no fuss under warranty! As with this kind of thing though, good maintenance and probably a yearly service will keep it running sweet!

So when does bikewheelguy start offering up fork and seatpost servicing????  Wink
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#3
I don't think whether your left handed or right handed has much relevance really.  It's all about where you want it positioned.  Mine is on top on the left because there is more to be doing with my right & after all, its a simple thumb maneouvre.... I'd like to have my new one under the bar on the left for the tidy, out of the way, look - which will mean having the RH one this time Smile
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#4
iv found on the left works best, as you can pop the post up and shift gears at the same time, which i found you end up doing pretty much every time.
as for below or above, if you don't run front mech there is room to run it under but if you do it does sometime make it hard to fit in on some setups under the bars but not all. i alway run it on the top as iv found it my nobly knees hitting it thats more likely to break one  :B but having it on top makes it venerable when you turn your bike upside down.
so for me its on top and swinging left that works ;D
Also i think Reverb are the best out there, and if you can get a 150mm , that extra bit of not hitting gooch is well worth it.
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#5
"Skid" Wrote:get a 150mm

+1

Bit annoyed I didn't wait and got a 125. I can see myself swapping it at some point.

Edit - thought I'd check them out and found this on MTBR:

"I talked to the SRAM people at Eurobike this year. They said that there were a couple of 150mm 30.9mm Reverbs actually delivered to some end-users. But they weren´t reliable and clamping forces were an issue.
They were therefore discontinued and come only in the 31,6 and 34,9mm as 150mm models"
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#6
"BennyP" Wrote:So when does bikewheelguy start offering up fork and seatpost servicing????  Wink

Reckon there are those with greater skills than me at this type of caper - I'll gladly do my own but would be nervous about taking the rubber hammer to anyone else's! That said, I was pleased to transform my Reba forks a couple of months ago to 'back to new' quality using a few bits off ebay and the excellent youtube vids/SRAM product manuals but no, I won't be looking to break into the fork servicing market just yet.

On topic, thanks for the input folks. I'm 100% on the left now, just need to decide whether to go for bar top or underneath... since I'm old skool enough to remember taking off my bar-top Shimano SIS levers and flipping them both upside down and back to front so that they were, like where my thumbs were back in circa 1995, I kind of like the idea of having it upside down, but we'll see.

Now just to check the finances another dozen times and then try and convince the wife that I neeeeed one!

Oh, and both HT and FS bikes are 30.9mm so I'm 'stuck' with a mere 125mm of plush, remote actuated seat dropping action...

Cheers again
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#7
KS do 150mm drop posts in 30.9. I was thinking of going Reverb but would also be stuck with 125mm as the Covert is also 30.9.
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#8
Well, kind of resigned to 125mm but going from 0" to 5" I can't think that extra inch would be too significant... the next minefield seems to be the length required. I have 180-200mm of seatpost exposed on my FSR (depending on where you measure from and to). What is the minimum frame insertion on these things like? hard to see from pictures on t'web.
Merlin have the 420mm post (presumably total length from base to end of straight bit of seat post (?)) with left hand lever for £30 less than CRC but CRC do a 350mm version, which a rummage with Terry the tape measure looks to be plenty long enough. Are we just talking weight saving here for the 350 vs the 420 or am I missing something? Can these things be too long? Can someone who has one tell me roughly how long the telescopic section of the 125mm seatpost is?
I'm assuming it's only the 5" at the top which needs to be clear of the frame, so presumably the telescopic bit is 125mm plus a bit more to allow for cable clearance etc, therefore if this is even as long as 180mm I'm gonna have 420 - 180 =  240mm or 9.5 massive inches of dropper post inserted in my frame (no sniggering). This seems about six inches too long... if min frame insertion is roughly 4" as per regular seatposts...

Anyone have anything to stop my brain from boiling here?
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#9
"BikeWheelGuy" Wrote:Well, kind of resigned to 125mm but going from 0" to 5" I can't think that extra inch would be too significant... the next minefield seems to be the length required. I have 180-200mm of seatpost exposed on my FSR (depending on where you measure from and to). What is the minimum frame insertion on these things like? hard to see from pictures on t'web.
Merlin have the 420mm post (presumably total length from base to end of straight bit of seat post (?)) with left hand lever for £30 less than CRC but CRC do a 350mm version, which a rummage with Terry the tape measure looks to be plenty long enough. Are we just talking weight saving here for the 350 vs the 420 or am I missing something? Can these things be too long? Can someone who has one tell me roughly how long the telescopic section of the 125mm seatpost is?
I'm assuming it's only the 5" at the top which needs to be clear of the frame, so presumably the telescopic bit is 125mm plus a bit more to allow for cable clearance etc, therefore if this is even as long as 180mm I'm gonna have 420 - 180 =  240mm or 9.5 massive inches of dropper post inserted in my frame (no sniggering). This seems about six inches too long... if min frame insertion is roughly 4" as per regular seatposts...

Anyone have anything to stop my brain from boiling here?

I sniggered lol. I think min insert is still 100mm as per most posts, and yes they are measured from bottom to saddle rail. If you have an uninterupted seat tube then you can have it as long as you want, but if the seat tube is interupted as per my old Enduro and Stumpy then you have to get the right length.
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#10
Yep what hugged said is right, also if you have the post pushed a far in as they go with the telescopic part extended it works out 185mm to the middle of the rail from the top of the seat clamp. So if you have sort legs and a long seat stay on the bike they do a 100mm travel version, 125mm fits for most people/bikes though.
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